Being an Arizonan transplant in Boston, I’m always dying for a taste of home in the desert. I’ve never made this Soronan soup before, but when an old friend brought up memories of her father’s family cooking this together, I had to look up a recipe. Below is a recipe from epicurious on this undersung regional Mexican dish that’s deeply satisfying yet remarkably light.

Ingredients

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium red onion, finely chopped
1–2 poblano or Anaheim chiles, seeds removed, thinly sliced
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 medium green or yellow summer squash, cut into ½” pieces
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes (3–4 large), scrubbed, cut into ½” pieces
6 cups chicken broth (not low-sodium)
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
⅓ cup oregano or marjoram leaves
1½ tsp. red wine vinegar
½ cup whole milk or half-and-half (optional)
10 oz. queso fresco, cut into ½” pieces

Directions

Step 1
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium. Cook red onion, chile, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, stirring with a wooden spoon, until starting to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and tomato paste, breaking up paste so it coats vegetables, then add squash, potatoes, and broth. Increase heat to medium-high and bring broth to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium and cook until potatoes are almost falling apart, 15–20 minutes.

Step 2
Add cherry tomatoes to pot and cook until warmed through but not bursting, about 3 minutes. Stir in oregano and vinegar and simmer 2 minutes to allow flavors to blend. Remove from heat and stir in milk (if using). Taste soup and season with more salt if needed.

Step 3
Divide queso fresco among bowls and ladle soup over, stirring to prevent cheese from clumping.